Ice wine: What makes it so special?

Eiswein Besonderheiten: Trauben mit Frost und Schnee im Weinberg während der Erntezeit.

For us winemakers, ice wine is something like a little miracle of winter. We leave healthy grapes hanging after the normal harvest and hope for that one frosty night when the berries truly freeze. In Austria, the grapes must not only be harvested frozen, but also pressed frozen—only then can the wine be called "ice wine." And the must needs to be at least 25°KMW (Klosterneuburg must weight); no sugaring or sweetening is permitted.

Because it's often asked: KMW is our Austrian unit of measurement for must weight. For reference: 1 °KMW ≈ 5 °Öchsle. For ice wine, this means that at least 25 °KMW must be reached naturally. The grapes must freeze naturally on the vine. And: ice wine may not be marketed in Austria before April 1 of the following year because it must first pass official testing.

From our perspective in the Krems Valley, ice wine is always a trembling experience. We check the weather forecast, count nights, measure temperatures – will a stable frost window still be around? In recent years, these frost periods have become less frequent and more unpredictable. Some winters don't produce any ice wine harvest at all, while other years surprise with a short, icy window – in 2023, for example, we even had an unusually early harvest at our winery, while in other years, frost simply didn't occur. It's precisely this uncertainty that makes ice wine so rare and special.

Which varieties are suitable for us? In the Kremstal, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, and Zweigelt dominate the region. For ice wine, we like to use Grüner Veltliner – weather permitting – because its lively, robust acidity bridges the gap to the sweetness, while the fruit remains clear and there's nothing heavy about it.

What does ice wine actually taste like? Often yellow apple, ripe stone fruit, apricot, along with hints of honey and blossom. The alcohol content is usually moderate because the wine contains so much residual sugar—that's part of its style. Good ice wines age excellently: Over the years, the aromas evolve toward dried fruit, honey, and sometimes nutty—the acidity keeps them lively. Serve at 8–10°C in a smaller sweet wine glass.

And what's our favorite way to enjoy a glass of ice wine around here? Our rule of thumb: The wine should be at least as sweet as the dish.

Classic Austrian: Fruity desserts are ideal – apple or curd strudel, Kaiserschmarrn with plum compote, apricot dumplings; sorbets or panna cotta with berries also work wonderfully.
Cheese & Contrast: A piece of blue cheese or a mature soft cheese from the region – the salty flavor plays wonderfully against the sweetness.
Spice & light spiciness: Asian-inspired cuisine with ginger, lime, a little chili – as long as the spiciness doesn’t get out of hand.

A few practical tips from our cellar: Ice wine thrives on mindfulness. It's better to top up a small glass than to pour too much – the sweetness makes it more intense, so you drink more slowly. Opened bottles will keep well for several days if kept cool. And when it comes to the kitchen: With dark chocolate (high cocoa content), other noble sweet styles often work better; for light, fruity desserts, ice wine is hard to beat.